Thursday, April 28, 2011

Real Madrid vs Barcelone: April 26th

Tonight, upon returning from Almeria and Cabo de Gato National  Park (posting to come), we made an evening out of going to town to watch Real Madrid play Barcelona. This rivalry is similar to Yankees-Red Sox, Packers-Bears, and Celtics-Lakers. Due to a somewhat unique scheduling gimmick, the teams are playing each other four times between April 16th and May2nd. I thought having Vasco watch with a bunch of cap-wearing locals who are fanatical about the game might give the ideal foundation for being a great futboler.
 The plan was to go to the Chinese store (littered throughout Spain and perhaps more of Europe are stores operated by Chinese that sell cheap stuff made in China. The Chinese government either pays the rent on these stores or guarantees it. These stores are perfect for buying just about anything from beach toys to a socket set – our favorite one even has a nice assortment of bras) to pickup some cheap futbol tshirts that aligned Anika with Barcelona and Vasco with Madrid. I even harbored optimistic visions of two older Spanish men laying their canes against the bar and hoisting Vasco to their shoulders after a Real Madrid score.
In the end the Chinese store apparently could not find margin in selling soccer shirts and we found a relatively quiet bar where we could watch the game while sitting comfortably outside. I cheered for Barcelona principally because Sofia cheered for Madrid. Vasco spent most of his time playing with the umbrella that covered our table. When he was not doing this, he was keen on doing “knuckles” (fist bumping) with me and yelling “chocolate” upon impact. I so badly want to find relevance between this activity and the futbol game but as of this posting, it is eluding me.
For those who care, Messi (Barcelona) knocked in two goals about 15 minutes after we had left to put the kids to bed. The skills and strategy that take place during these games is amazing but to me it is bogged down by the posturing, gesticulating, acting and bickering that the players feel compelled to perform in the name of entertainment. That said, I will be back for more on May 2nd.

A night of Flamenco: April 10th

The more immediate roots of Flamenco music (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flamenco) come from the 18th century and the Spanish gypsies but when you hear the music, you know in your heart (and I do not use this word lightly) that this amazing art form took light long before this.
On the last night of the Wright’s visit, the four adults (I use this word lightly when applying to myself) went to a restaurant called Postigo at the base of the Arab Castle (Castillo) that sits atop Salobrena for Flamenco and sunset. The restaurant offers fabulous views over the city and out to the snow-capped Sierra Nevadas which were quilted with the pink of the setting sun. After combining this setting with Rioja (I know…common thread), we would have tolerated a tribute band that specialized in Paris Hilton’s classic hits. Instead, the night only got better.






The Flamenco group, which featured a guitarist, a singer, a dancer, and a guy that that did some rhythmic clapping, a little singing, a little guitar playing, and a lot of facial gestures. We called him the never-ending “groupie” but my guess is that he was much more than that. To use a sports analogy, he was your consummate utility man ala Steve Tasker of the Buffalo Bills – the type of guy you just can’t keep off the field / stage.
They started with some soft guitar music. As the music picked up, the singer joined in and belted out sounds that had to originate from deep within. Abandoning my silliness for a moment, I wondered to myself and the table, how someone is able to control sounds that come from so far below the larynx. Did he get this skill from a parent, a grandparent an uncle….Did he have to train or was this gift simply bestowed to him? Much the way that words are secondary in opera (I have been to the opera twice in my life), it did not matter what he was saying.
Needless to say, when the dancer joined in, I became even more mesmerized. She changed her costume for each of three sets and the group finished with the pace and passion of their magic at a crescendo. I was so overwhelmed that had Angie not stopped me, I would have tried to book them 25 years in advance for Anika’s wedding.
It was a small enough venue that we were able to tell them in person how much we appreciated their talents and the wife of the guitarist teaches Flamenco so Angie and Anika will be taking private lessons!!

Saturday, April 23, 2011

A most un Spanish Posting

Unfortunately, a non-existent internet signal has slowed my efforts to doucment our trip via the blog. A more disciplined soul would have simply written everything in Word and then pasted entries into the blog when the interent was available.

We have found an oasis from our internet famine in the friendly form of the golden arches. Yes, Angie and I are on a date in the South of Spain at Mickey D's catching up on emails and enjoying the laughter of the Spanish families who are dining after the Easter Week processions. A more vibrant Mickey D's you will not find. Now that I know that in a pinch, I can always roll down the hill to Motril to get to the web, I will get this blog back on track.

We have done most of our sightseeing and hosting and now we are trying to grab onto the language so that we return with a little more than pictures, memories and a taste for Rioja. The kids' progress, without the help of other kids, is slow coming. We have had the good fortune to meet a few families who have taken the plunge and moved to this part of Spain and, according to them, unless we enroll the kids in a Spanish school (unlikely scenario) the language acquisition we hoped for them will not occur. I suppose, a part of me knew this to be the case well before our trip began but another part hoped that the Spanish sun alone would bake into them a grasp of the language.

We are now leaving Ray Croc's masterful franchise and heading out for tapas. Cheers and think about buying McDonalds' stock the next time it hits a 60 day low.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Granada

View from the Alhambra to the southeast looking back at Sierra Nevada Mountains
Soldiers' quarters in the Alcazaba, the oldest part of the Alhambra

The wonderful gardens of the Generalife

Picture from Albacin: Alhambra with Sierra Nevadas in back
Spain is hard work!!!
In the last 12 days, we have been to Granada three times. First we toured the wonderful Alhambra (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alhambra - sorry for laziness but Wikipedia will do much more justice to this amazing structure and its place in history than I ever could) and finished the day with a drink and some tapas looking to the west with the sun setting on the Alhambra and the magnificent Sierra Nevadas. The Alhambra was not a disappointment and I cannot think of any structure short of the Taj Mahal that is more awe inspiring.

In addition to the list of literature listed on Wikipedia, I just finished "Granada" by Radwa Ashour and it gives a compelling depiction of a Muslim family living in the Albacin (the Morrish Quarter of Granada) during the time that the Castilians overtook Granada. The treaty that was signed gave the Muslims religious and cultural  freedom but the Castilians (Catholics) changed their mind and began forcing the Muslims to convert to Christianity and abandon their faith and their Arabic customs. It seems that the author, an Egyptian woman, did quite loads of research and I found the presentation of family interactions, cultural customs, commerce and daily routine fascinating. It is a short book that gives a wonderful perspective of this critical time in world history.

Our second day in Granada, Angie and I roamed the Albacin and its wonderful streets and passageways that wind around in a manner that makes it easy to get lost. Portions of this extremely old neighborhood (600-1000 years old) are in disrepair while other portions have been converted into bars, restaurants, modern residences and smalll hotels.

Wider street in Albacin that has been converted into rows of little stores (Tiendas)



After getting purposely lost amongst these passageways we headed down the hill to a Hammam where we had an appointment. A Hammam is an Arabic bathhouse and they floruished in Spain until the Castilians began shutting them down during the Reconquest. They were cavernous buildings dedicated to bathing, massage and wellness. The one we visited was a wonderful recreation of what Hammams looked like back in the day. It was dark with minimal lights (much of the lighting was by candle) and had beautifully tiled rooms with arched ceilings and marble floors. There were seperate chambers for cold, warm, and hot baths (essentially pools),a steam room, a hot stone room, and additional rooms for massage. The design of the plumbing systems were quite intricate for the time as different water temperaturs flowed into each bath.

We were instructed to move amongst the rooms (spending 5-10 minutes in each) so that poors would be opened and shut and muscles would be relaxed. We received relatively short but excellent massages that were more along the lines of a deep tissue massage. Also, tea was constantly served as we moved from room to room. The location of the spa was in a tiny alleyway behind an old church. While it is a recreated hammam, the pamphlet claims that excavation of the structure that previously sat on this site leads one to think that a genuine hammam used to be in the same location.

After emerging from the hammam very relaxed, we met the Wrights (Chad, Lesley, Olivia and Anna) in Plaza Nuevo to do more exploring in the Albacin. The Wrights were visiting for the week and had come to Granada to tour the Alhambra.

Our third trip to Granada began with another adventure into the Alpujarras. This time we drove even further into the hills to Capileira. Chad and I did a nice hike that put us closer to the base of the Sierra Nevada mountains and the girls explored the town. We got back in the car and got to Granada in time to have a drink before our 10pm hammam (yes, the experience definitely merited a return) appointment. We emerged at midnight relaxed and ready to enjoy the nightlife of Granada which only begins to slow down at 3am.




 

The truth about tapas

The lore of the tapa is that a salted piece of meat was often used as a "top" to keep flies from swimming in an open bottle of wine. Bar owners started to notice that if  they handed this salty meat out to patrons, they would likely order another drink. A better summary follows below:

La Tapa so as to be meaningful, has to be eaten between main meals as food that allows the body to survive until lunch or dinnertime.

Some authors assert that the tapa was born when, due to an illness, the Spanish king Alfonso the 10th, the Wise, had to take small bites of food with some wine between meals. Once recovered from the disease, the wise king decreed that no wine was to be served in any of the inns in the land of Castile , unless accompanied by something to eat. This was a wise precaution to counteract the adverse effects of alcohol on those people who, through lack of money to buy a nourishing meal, drank alcohol on an empty stomach.
Apart from the story of the royal disease we should consider the theory that the tapa first appeared because of the need of farmers and workers of other unions to take a small amount of food during their working time, which allowed them to carry on working until time for the main meal.

This main meal, rich in fat, was so heavy to digest that a “siesta” had to be taken for a couple of hours before going back to the fields or to the workshop. Longer working hours in the morning meant an easier workload after the meal.

Wine was the natural accompaniment to this snack, as it induced a mellow mood and increased strength, while in winter it warmed the body as protection against very cold days in the fields and in the workshops of the Middle Ages. In summer, the drink taken in the South was “gazpacho” (cold tomato soup), instead of wine, which increased body heat rather than providing the necessary cold refreshment.

The snack is called “alifara” in northern Spain , Aragón and Navarra; and later, in the Vasque Country, it began to be called “poteo”, because the wine had to be drunk in “potes” (jars).

Once the “botillerias” (bottle-shops) and “tabernas” (taverns) became established throughout Spain , the wise King’s decree remained in place. For that reason, the glass or jar of wine was served covered with a slice of either smoked ham or cheese, for two reasons: first to prevent insects or other impurities falling into the jar and secondly, for the guests to soak up the alcohol they had drunk with something solid, as King Alfonso had advised. This was the origin of the tapa, a solid food that covered the wineglass and a word rooted in Spanish tradition.   And so the tradition of the tapa spread throughout Spain , and continues right up to the present day. Many other countries have adopted the tapa, serving it in many different ways.

A solid tapa is the favorite lunchtime food of North Americans as it helps them to keep going throughout their working day right up to the early evening. Although popular with North Americans, the tapas tradition has not caught on in Europe , where the Old Continent is faithful to the custom of eating three main meals a day - breakfast, mid-day and evening.

Because of the length of time between the early-morning breakfast, and the midday meal, which in fact is really only eaten in the early evening, some Mediterranean countries have adopted the custom of taking a “tentempié” (snack), an appetizer or the “tapita”. This break gives people a chance to socialize and to discuss work-related topics.

The traditional drink with the tapa is wine, either “peleón” (young and cheap) or “reserve” wine (matured in oak-barrels) of each region: young “txakolí” in the Basque Country, Penedés wine or Cava in Cataluña, “ribeiro” in the Northwest, young Valdepeñas or Rioja wine in Castile and in the centre, or fine sherry in the south. In Asturias and in northern parts, where apples grow in abundance, cider replaces wine.

Tapas recipes vary according to the taste and gastronomic traditions of each region. But the tapas most often served are usually those including  the many variety of olives, dry nuts, as well as many kinds of cold cuts. Nowadays, the tapa includes many other recipes for appetizers. In the Middle Ages and during periods of economic hardship, those courses were supplemented with bread. However, today, those courses are included in the tapas world. Tapas recipes use a wide variety of animal-derived products, such as meat, fish and eggs and agricultural products such as vegetables.
The many varieties of olives - green, Manzanilla, machacadas (crushed), gordales (big), rellenas (stuffed), aliñadas (flavoured) or deshuesadas (stoneless) - are in themselves the subject of a book. Together with the olives, slices of garlic or smoked-ham sausages, slices of cheese or jamón curado, became famous worldwide. After all, this is the real origin of the cover of the Middle Ages’ jar.
(me again)
The variety of tapas has definitely expanded past the realm of salted meat and depending on everything from the amount of leftovers to the mood of the bar tender, the small "tapas" sized portion that is handed out upon purchase of a drink can be as elaborate as a small portion of rabbit stew to a few slices of bread with cheese and a few olives.

The custom here is for lunch (almuerza) to be the primary meal (such that combined with the heat of Southern Spain, it induces the all popular siesta!) and for dinner to be a little smaller. Several evening we have made dinner out of "hopping" from tapas bar to tapas bar. It appears that there is absolutely no shame in this.

Some of the bars have partial or full menus from which food can be ordered and others simply have tapas. If you stay for several drinks, a good bar will "cycle" you through a nice variety of tapas such that after the fourth or fifth drink, one would have hit for the cycle. OK, I am pretty that in this futbol-centric country they do not apply baseball analogies to tapas bars....

A few nights ago in Almunecar, we were treated at the first three bars to six very nice tapas. This included a marianted beef dish, some really good tuna melts,  something resembled spinach quiche, a really tasty marinated mushroom dish and a few plates of assorted meats. As the night meandered and we ended up at a bar that had a Texas hold'em tournament going on, we were given a plate of potato chips. Overall I would say that bar keeps in Almunecar take pride in the quality of their tapas.

[pictures to follow]

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

James Bond - not so much

After a wonderful day exploring the Alpujarras, we decided to give the kids a break from mountan driving since we were headed back through the mountains the next day to see Granada. Angie had eaten something disagreable (likely morcilla which is pigs blood sausage) and was down for the day so the rest of us went into nearby Salobrena. I dropped Tracy and Sarah to explore sans kids and the rest of us went to the beach. After two hours of frolicking at the beach (during which I plunged into the Meditteranean for all of 30 seconds), we went back to the house for lunch. Around 4pm I left to go back to meet Tracy and Sarah at the castle...

I jumped into our beautiful new car on this most glorious of days and found a great Spanish song (great in that I understood every third word). I sped into Salobrena determined to drive as quickly as possible to the top of the hill, where the castle is perched. The narrow stone roads wind through the Albacin (Moorish quarter) and the white houses are adorned with several varieties of flowers. Twice I found dead ends and had to back track but I was unphased. The music was still pushing me to navigate the narrow 12th century roads and visions of James Bond racing through the mountains of Sardinia in "The Spy who Loved Me"or motorcycling through the web of passageways of (drawing a blank) in "Never Say Never Again" gave me inspiration.  Sure, James Bond has thicker hair, a better accent and a car the has more torque and less gerth but I saw parrallels beyond these discrepancies.


About two thirds up to the castle I encountered a street that had not been properly sized for the Volvo XC 90. I pulled in the side mirrows and made it through with easily a centimeter to spare on each side. I was exhilirated but a little concerned that the next street might only be three donkeys wide. I consulted two elderly Sapnish woman who clearly thought me a buffoon and suggested that perhaps I might be able to go to the right and escape unscathed. They would have been right had someone not parked in a place that made going to the right potentially unpassable. Being the unpatient sole I am I refused to wait until the owner of the parked car returned to remove it from its most inconvenient location. After going forward and backwards three inches each way fifty times, I was in a point of no return. I crossed my fingers and.......



Yes - those are scratches on our new car. I spent the rest of the day and night thinking of ways to pay for the required paint work: cheaper red wine, less Manchego per day, less golf upon my return to the states, vocational school for Vasco.....My agony subsided after a great dinner in Almunecar served by an amiable Frenchman. It subsided further when I discovered a body shop right at the bottom of the hill (from our rental). The owner of the shop gave me a reasonable price for the work and all is well.